Yakshagana travel guide

Region

Coastal and Malnad Karnataka

Languages

Kannada and Tulu

Main styles

Tenkutittu and Badagutittu

Instruments

Chande, maddale, cymbals, harmonium

Where it is performed

Yakshagana is strongest in Udupi, Dakshina Kannada, Uttara Kannada and Shivamogga districts, and across the border in Kasaragod in Kerala. Shows are given in Kannada or Tulu, the main languages of the coast. The tradition grew up in farming villages, and troupes have long toured the countryside to entertain and encourage farming communities. It now also has keen audiences in Bengaluru and Mumbai.

How a performance works

The Bhagavata, the lead singer, is the heart of the show. He sings the story of the evening, called the prasanga, and sets the pace for the actors, who dance, mime and improvise dialogue in verse and prose. He is backed by the maddale, a hand drum, the loud chande drum, cymbals and a harmonium. Himmela refers to this musical ensemble, and mummela to the actors on stage.

A traditional stage is a simple raised platform of beaten earth, lit so that the costumes glitter. There is also a puppet form of Yakshagana, in which the puppets wear miniature versions of the actors' costumes and make-up.

Costumes and make-up

The costumes are among the most striking in Indian theatre. Actors wear layered skirts and jackets, heavy face paint that marks each character as a hero, god, villain or demon, and ornaments carved from light wood and covered in gold foil and mirror pieces.

• Kirita or pagade: the large headgear
• Bhuja keerthi: arm ornaments shaped like wings
• Dabu: the ornamental belt
• Kavacha: the chest piece

Styles

The two best-known regional styles are Tenkutittu, the southern style, and Badagutittu, the northern style, which differ in dance steps, costume and music. Smaller local variations also exist. If you are visiting the coast between November and May, ask locally about village performances, which are often free and last until dawn.

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